Southern Decadence
To properly experience this story, it ought to come with a soundtrack of hard-driving beats and a confetti canon.
What is it?
Southern Decadence is a Labor Day Weekend event in the French Quarter celebrating the LGBTQ community. Events include pool parties, drag brunches, costume contests, and a festive and fabulous parade.
The 53-year-old event draws over 250,000 people and over $270 million in spending for the New Orleans area, making it one of the top 5 annual events in the city.
The theme
The theme sets the tone and the colors for the 6-day weekend. This year, “Etched in Stone, Timeless and Decadent” was expressed through black, gold, white/silver, and purple. Revelers were encouraged to evoke "ancient marble statues come to life, paired with a glamorous, velvet-drenched masquerade."
I love a parade
My first home in the French Quarter was on the route of the parade. We would host a porch party or sit on our stoop and cheer on the Big Easy Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence, Mystic Krewe of the Lords of Leather, New Orleans Louisiana Pups and Handlers, Krewe of Goddesses, The Jamettes, Roux La La, Krewe of Chewbacchus, Krewe of Spank, Flaming Flagetts, and more.
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My beloved Pussyfooter sisters would ask why I didn’t dance along with them, but with its vibrance and humor, Decadence has always been one of my favorite events to photograph.
Two years ago, I decided to become part of the picture and dance with my pink army. Between the heat, humidity, and relentless sun, I almost didn't make it to the end. A first for me. I swore I'd never do the event again... until the following year when the weather was cooler – high80's.
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Again, the heat was more than my body could process and I became concerned I wouldn't be able to finish. I swore I'd go back to taking photos and never, NEVER parade in Decadence again... unless they moved the event from noon to 5pm – like they did this year. It was still too hot and breezeless, but the 5pm move made the parade more pleasant for onlookers and participants alike.
Dancing in Decadence
It's always a joy to strap on my pink corset and white combat boots and join the Pussyfooters to inspire smiles throughout the city. But Decadence takes things to another level – especially the crowds cheering us on. Like us, they're often costumed and glitter-covered. Funny logoed t-shirts read like roadside billboards. Many people snap fans at us in lieu of applause. It's all pretty fabulous.
What's on my head?
In keeping with the "monumental" theme, I decided to craft one of the oldest known symbols for a god – inspired by the book I'm currently writing (my 9th). The symbol worn on the Egyptian goddess Neith's head is open to interpretation. Some say it's two crossed bows representing Neith as a warrior goddess. Others hold that it's a weaving shuttle signifying the goddess weaving the universe into existence.
The truth is no one really knows what the symbol is. Much of the story of the goddess Neith was already lost when the Egyptians began their records. They only knew she was the most ancient creator god – the god who'd birthed herself, all the other gods, and everything in the universe. I'm no Egyptologist, but if I were looking for something that symbolized the birth of everything, I might choose the actual birth canal.
So maybe what's on my head is arrows, maybe it's a weaving shuttle, but my guess would be that it's the original portal of life – and the perfect topper for a Pussyfooter.
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A word on Katrina
Labor Day weekend also marked 20 years since Katrina barreled through the city, 20 years since the Army Corps of Engineers levees failed and immersed these streets, 20 years since the world watched helplessly as people stood on rooftops begging for rescue, or at least drinking water.
The city is still recuperating in many ways. I suppose there are those who might think we should've spent our weekend mourning our dead and counting our losses – which of course, many did.
What the Storm taught me is that anything can die – even a city. A culture. Like many here, I'm making it a mission to keep this city the vibrant, festive collection of commerce and creativity that has drawn people here for centuries. Southern Decadence is a great reminder to dance every chance you get.
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